Ireland - The Gathering

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Colourful Dingle

Dingle-4

There’s no reason to bring religion into it. I think we ought to have as great a regard for religion as we can, so as to keep it out of as many things as possible.

Sean O’Casey

Fishing Fleet - Dingle Harbour

Fishing Fleet – Dingle Harbour

Autumn arrives in early morning, but spring at the close of a winter day.

Elizabeth Bowen

Viking Heritage

Viking Heritage

A man travels the world over in search of what he needs and returns home to find it.

George A. Moore

Dingle Harbour

Dingle Harbour

Even if the hopes you started out with are dashed, hope has to be maintained.

Seamus Heaney

 

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Filed Under: bottom, landscape Tagged With: dingle, fog, Ireland

Dallying in Dingle

Minard Castle - Dingle

I am a daylight atheist.

Brendan Behan

A full day to explore Dingle, bike and hike to Eask Tower, horse riding, search for Fungie in the harbour or visit Great Blasket Island – so many options for a single one day so we rose early, headed down to breakfast and saw the fog enshrouding the bay. Thoughts of hiking, biking or sailing dissipated as quickly as the boat disappeared into the foggy expanse, we dallied over a magnificent breakfast spread contemplating the sightseeing options closer to town. Perhaps we can risk a walk out to the harbour entrance to see the 19th Century folly?

The grey mist persisted until after lunch but we walked out to the harbour entrance and sat under the folly watching tour boats searching forlornly for Fungie the dolphin; no Fungie, no cost is their guarantee I think they made little money that day. The English fishing along the shore no doubt happy that the dolphin was not there to scare the fish away.

Back in town, we lingered over lunch and in St. Joseph’s Convent we listened to the narration explaining the illumination of master craftsman Harry Clark’s six stained glass windows depicting scenes of the life of Christ. Outside the Sisters lie together under the spreading boughs of an old tree, their service to God complete they rest eternally in their adopted home.

An interesting if bleak day but the sun did emerge to bring colour to our Dingle stay.

Shark?

Shark?

Searching for Fungie

Searching for Fungie

Sisters Last Resting Place

Sisters Last Resting Place

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Filed Under: activity, bottom Tagged With: castle, coast, dingle, fog

A Literary Journey in Ireland

Oscar Wilde Statue - Dublin

A great artist is always before his time or behind it.

George Moore

If tragedy, suffering, bigotry and depression create the fodder for great literature, is it any wonder that Ireland produces so many great writers, poets and playwrights?

During the Dark Ages, Ireland shielded the written word against the barbarism of the Roman Empire’s decaying ruins and became a haven for scholars seeking knowledge and enlightenment. They travelled from Rome itself to learn from the St Edna on Inishmore, and hundreds like him spread throughout the furthest corners of this Celtic island. A candle of hope that flickering behind the dark curtain of ignorance but once pulled aside its light flooded into the empty space to illuminate the known world again.

The great Irish writers shone that same light on their Nation’s struggles from the searing satire of British colonialism in Jonathan Swift’s Gulliver’s Travels to the brutal poverty in Frank McCourt’s memoirs, Angela’s Ashes and ‘Tis. Most famous of all is Oscar Wilde; the flamboyant writer lampooned British upper-class snobbery, and delved deep into the darkness of man’s heart with equal skill and attention. Widely revered and quoted, his works are largely unread by the modern populace but Oscar’s words reach out from the past to skewer the facile existence of many modern lives.

One’s real life is so often the life that one does not lead.

Oscar Wilde

James Joyce gave us his opus, Ulysses a rambling retelling of Homer’s Odyssey through his Dubliners’ trials through the pubs, libraries and brothels on one notable day. Many readers lift this mighty tome but few put it down read much less understood. People employ guides, maps, lists and annotations to follow the complex plot through its 700 pages (Gabler Edition) making it their own personal odyssey and I must confess this novel defeated me at my first attempt (a second is pending).

After his early work to renew the Celtic myths, William Butler Yeats spent his latter years writing about Ireland’s transition to independence that painful yet joyous path to freedom in their own Nation. An ardent nationalist, he joined the IRA in his early years but distanced himself from political life as he grew older perhaps wiser until 1920. In 1922, Yeats (57) became a Senator in Irish Free State and he became a great advocate for the separation of Church and State. His poetry grew stronger in his latter years and his transition from a classical style to 20th Century modernism are often compared with his fellow artist Pablo Picasso’s transition in painting. Whether he truly made that leap into modernity is an academic trite, his words reverberate through time and his epitaph left us one last riddle.

Cast a cold Eye
On Life, on Death.
Horseman, pass by!

Great Blasket IslandNo where is Ireland’s love of the written word more evident than the Great Blasket Centre on the tip of the Dingle Peninsular dedicated to the extraordinary literary legacy of a small island community on Great Blasket Island and their struggle for survival. Tomás Ó Criomhthain wrote two incredible books (The Islandman and Island Cross Talk) about his life on the island, thoroughly absorbing and vivid tales of his way of life and the people with whom he shared the hardship of their remote island community. His success inspired other islanders to write about their lives, Peig Sayers and Muiris Ó Súilleabháin are the best known but dozens penned their tales in frenzy of writing as their island community withered in the late forties and early fifties. The final Great Blasket Island residents were evacuated in 1953, and their tale is told by Tomás’ son Seán in his book Lá dár Saol. Baile Átha Cliath Oifig an tSoláthair 1969 or, in English A Day in Our Life. Translated by Tim Enright. Oxford University Press, 1992. The shear volume of work from a community that never numbered more than 150 ensured that they will not be forgotten, helped to preserve the Irish language and the stories of their unique way of life. As Tomás Ó Criomhthain wrote in his final chapter:

I have written minutely of much that we did, for it was my wish that somewhere there should be a memorial of it all, and I have done my best to set down the character of the people about me so that some record of us might live after us, for the like of us will never be again.

Oscar Wilde Quote

Oscar Wilde Quote

W.B. Yeats' Grave

W.B. Yeats’ Grave

Great Blasket Centre Stained Glass

Great Blasket Centre Stained Glass

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Filed Under: bottom, history Tagged With: books, Ireland, literature, playwright, poet, writing

Looping around the Dingle Pennisular

The Dingle Peninsular is a spectacular coastline, less travelled than the Ring of Kerry, and Rick recommends skirting the latter to concentrate on Dingle Peninsular’s views and history. For film buffs, it is also where Robert Mitchum filmed Ryan’s Daughter in 1970. Enjoy my images:

View from Slea Head

View from Slea Head

Life, it seems to me, is worth living, but only if we avoid the amusements of grown-up people.

Robert Lynd

Dingle Peninsular near Ballyferriter

Dingle Peninsular near Ballyferriter

I heard the old, old, men say ‘all that’s beautiful drifts away, like the waters.’

William Butler Yeats

The crew capturing the view.

The crew capturing the view.

The true mystery of the world is the visible, not the invisible.

Oscar Wilde

An Riasc

An Riasc

Finding the right work is like discovering your own soul in the world.

Thomas Moore

Gallarus Oratory

Gallarus Oratory

You can preach a better sermon with your life than with your lips.

Oliver Goldsmith

Finding illumination in Gallarus Oratory

Finding illumination in Gallarus Oratory

God is a character, a real and consistent being, or He is nothing. If God did a miracle He would deny His own nature and the universe would simply blow up, vanish, become nothing.

Joyce Cary

Ruined church of Kilmalkedar

Ruined church of Kilmalkedar

The best decision I ever made was to become a priest and I think the second best was to resign.

John O’Donohue

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Filed Under: bottom, landscape Tagged With: church, dingle, Ireland, monastery, oratory

Kissane Farm – Of Dogs and Sheep

Kissane Farm - Shephard

Nothing happens, nobody comes, nobody goes, it’s awful.

Samuel Beckett

Visiting a working farm, seeing and hearing about their struggles opens your mind to the plight of modern farmers in the Western World. Once profitable commodities like wool have become drains on many small farms, sheep must sheared but the wool is worthless in a market demanding ever finer and cheaper wool from suppliers.

Kissane Farm is a larger operation than many Irish farms but it is tourism and crowd funding that keeps the farm from failure; meat, wool and other farm produce are almost the sideline markets. It is a common problem in small rural areas, large corporate farms have reduced prices to the point where independent farmers cannot make a living from their properties. Many fail, sell to the multi-nationals or hand the land over to their bankers before heading to the cities and a life away from the open spaces.

Sheep dog and shearing demonstrations, the sale of bespoke items and an intriguing Adopt a Sheep program all contribute to the Kissane Farm financial security. And hey, it was a great fun watching the dogs herd the sheep reacting to the shepard’s commands to bring them all home.

Shearing a ewe

Shearing a ewe

Irish Sheep

Irish Sheep

Round them up

Round them up

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Filed Under: activity, bottom Tagged With: dog, farm, Ireland, sheep, shepard

A Kinsale Stroll

Kinsale Walking Tour

Where I am not understood, it shall be concluded that something very useful and profound is couched underneath.

Jonathan Swift

Kinsale played a pivotal role in European history, a deep sheltered harbour at the Atlantic gateway to control trade or strangle Protestant England into submission to the Holy Roman Empire.

In 1601, Spain landed 3000 soldiers and took control of Kinsale to await the arrival of 7000 Irish warriors to route the English Army. England held the high ground around Kinsale, and lay siege to the Spanish invaders with a small force while their main Army defeated the Irish. The French attempted to secure Kinsale in 1690 but England prevailed again, and built two great star fortresses to guard the harbour entrance. The best preserved is Charles Fort, the English Army occupied it until 1922 when Ireland became an independent Nation.

In 1915, a German submarine sank the Lusitania just 10 miles off the Kinsale coast with the loss of 1200 souls and turned the debate in the United States towards entering the war in Europe.

This rich history is brought to life for travellers by Don Herily and Barry Moloney on their Historic Stroll Kinsale, Rick Steves‘ must do attraction in this small port town. Excited to show us his town and his daily tour gig, Barry led us out into the cool morning air his passion for history evident in every fact and story that revealed the rich tapestry of Kinsale’s past. After a quick bus ride to Charles Fort, Barry handed us over to the local Heritage Ireland guide to delve deeper into the military history before a harbour stroll back to Kinsale for lunch. A wonderful day in this small but historic town.

Local Character

Local Character

Barry launches into a story.

Barry launches into a story.

Fort Charles

Fort Charles

Kinsale Harbour

Kinsale Harbour

Kinsale Restaurant

Kinsale Restaurant

Supporting Cork

Supporting Cork

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Filed Under: bottom, history

With a Song in my Heart

Musical Fun

THAT crazed girl improvising her music.
Her poetry, dancing upon the shore…

W.B. Yeats

From traditional folk music to hard bitten rock anthems, Ireland is a country immersed in their music heritage and the rich tradition of live performance. We began our musical journey on a Musical Pub Crawl in Dublin, our guides explained the different styles, traditional instruments and taught us all to play the boot (stomping the beat). They encouraged us to bring our music to the evening, and Suzanne took up the challenge to share a song from her heart. The pub crawl is aimed at the tourists but it is a great introduction to the Irish folk traditions and the music you will encounter in every pub in Ireland.

In Kinsale, we headed to the local pubs and joined the locals as the belted out the gritty sometimes bawdy songs. While the tourists still outnumbered the locals (at least early in the evening), they played to their passions with strong voices and instrumental skills beyond their amateur status. Grab a Murphy’s (the preferred stout in County Cork), play the boot and if the mood takes you chime in to share a song from your home.

In Dingle, we visited Siopa Ceoil for an introduction to the Irish language from the music shop’s enthusiastic owner Michael Herlihy. Michael’s encyclopaedic knowledge and passion for Irish music is infectious, and he hosts intimate concerts in his shop featuring some of Ireland’s best musicians and dancers. We had the pleasure of seeing Niamh Varian-Barry from the acclaimed Irish-American band Solas play with her husband Peter Staunton, fresh from their honeymoon the interplay between them made the music simply magical. Throw in World Champion Irish dancer David Geaney, and you have the full evening of Irish entertainment.

Music is everywhere in Ireland, walking down Grafton St (Dublin) on our last tour day we stopped to listen to Mutefish a reggae folk ‘n punk band that started as a busking project on the streets of Dublin in 2007. Although the Irish folk music influence is unmistakable, the original band members all hail from Eastern Europe with Daithi (flute/tin whistle) joining them in 2010 to add some Irish authenticity to their unique sound. The only souvenir we brought home was a copy of Mutefish’s CD On Draught, a great accompaniment to our Irish photo memories.

Sausages Sausages Mash

Sausages Sausages Mash

Suzanne shares her music.

Suzanne shares her music.

Musical Gathering in Kinsale

Musical Gathering in Kinsale

Dingle Music Magic

Dingle Music Magic

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Filed Under: activity, bottom Tagged With: fiddle, Ireland, music

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